Back to Argentina: Villa O'Higgins - El Chalten - El Calafate

Next stop: Argentina. It was necessary to take a boat across Lago O'Higgins, then ride/push the bike along a remote and rough 25 km section of single-trail to reach the Argentinian border post at the head of Lago del Desierto. I had a great view south down the lake to 3375 m Mt Fitzroy and its surrounding peaks.

After taking another ferry to the south end of Lago del Desierto, I finally reached El Chalten. This rapidly growing little village was my base for hikes to Cerro Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, and Campo de Hielo Sur - the Southern Patagonian Icefield. It's not an easy place to reach and the sweeping view across the Viedma Glacier to the vast icy interior was a real highlight. 

Mindful of wanting to reach Ushuaia before the end of March, I pushed on to El Calafate and had my first taste of headwinds on the pampa. The next few weeks are going to be tough! 

All aboard - the boat across Lago O'Higgins. 

At this point I'm one of many cyclists. The nice thing is we all know each other, having ridden the same road during the previous weeks. 

Unfortunately, we're leaving the good weather behind us. 

Goodbye to Chile (but not for long).

Riding the pass to Argentina. 

No road, just a well-worn track. 

With some nice forest. 

Into Argentina!

Lago del Desierto with Cerro Fitzroy in the cloud at the far end. 

End of a pretty tough day. 

Cerro Fitzroy and surrounding peaks in perfect weather with Lago de Los Tres in the foreground. 

A redheaded woodpecker doing his thing. 

Approaching Cerro Torre. Cerro Torre's the first of the three spires. 

Cerro Torre from Lago Torre. 

Hiking in to the Viedma Glacier. 

Lago Viedma. The glacier is to the right hidden behind the hill. 

Up on Paso Heumul with a view across the glacier to the peaks of the Southern Patagonian Icefield. The wind was crazy. 

Perfect for condors! There were three of them. 

They were fascinating to watch as they hovered effortlessly over the glacier. 

Time to move on from El Chalten and cross the pampa to El Calafate. 

Out in the pampa, an armadillo crossed my path.

Coyhaique to Villa O'Higgins

The second half of the Carretera Austral began with a 100 km ride through to Villa Cerro Castillo. The impressive craggy peaks of Cerro Castillo watch over the town. From there, Ruta 7 deteriorates to a rough gravel "ripio" road through
the mountains to emerge again on the shores of Lago General Carrera. This is the second-largest lake in South America behind Lake Titicaca and feels like an inland sea. The contrast of its blue waters against the barren brown hills of the surrounding countryside is stunning. 

After a night in Puerto Rio Tranquilo on the shore of Lago General Carrera, I continued south on the ripio to Cochrane, the last proper town until Villa O'Higgins around 220 km away. The summer festival was in town so it was a good chance to encounter people from the Aysen Region and learn about some of their customs. 

Loaded with food for 4 days, I set off for Villa O'Higgins. After 2 days, I reached the tiny village of Caleta Yungay and was back at sea-level. I arrived in the middle of a storm with a malfunctioning rear derailleuer, so things were not looking great at that point, but after a good sleep I could resolve the problem the next morning.  From Caleta Yungay it was necessary to catch a ferry across the fiord to Rio Bravo in order to continue the journey on Ruta 7. The weather, which had been rainy and cold, cleared up as I rode south and when I finally reached the remote little village of Villa O'Higgins, I saw it at its best.

Happy to have completed the Carretera Austral, my mind turned to the challenging route south to El Chalten in Argentina. 

The craggy peaks of Cerro Castillo. 

Rounding the shore of Lago General Carrera. 

Lago General Carrera. 

Heading south on the ripio to Cochrane.  

At the meeting point of the azure blue Rio Baker & grey Rio Chacabuco (top left). 

Rugged country near Cochrane. 

Still following the Rio Baker. 

Arrival in Cochrane. The end of the Carretera is finally within reach. 

Faces at the summer festival in Cochrane. 

Plenty of food and fun. 

My cycling buddies planning the next leg of the journey in the army barracks at Yungay. 

With the weather clearing, I took the ferry across the fiord to Rio Bravo. 

The Carretera is nothing for softies...

The final few km's to Villa O'Higgins. 

Ane the bike's still going strong. 

Some impressions from a great day-hike near Villa O'Higgins. 

Coyhaique - Half Way on the Carretera

I've now reached Coyhaique, which marks approximately half way on the Carretera Austral! It's my first day off after 12 consecutive days of cycling. There's beautiful sunny weather and free accommodation at a casa ciclista, where I can camp in the back yard of a fellow cyclist along with about 8 others. It's a relaxed atmosphere and a good chance to catch up on the washing, bike maintenance, shopping, blog, diary...

I've made some great friends and am looking forward to the next part of the journey, following the southern part of the Carretera Austral to Bernhard O'Higgens.  I've ridden about 1150 km and still have about 2000 km to Ushuaia. 

Near Villa Amengual on the way to Coyhaique. 

Free camping with cycling friends. 

Approaching Villa Manihuales. 

In Villa Manihuales, motel and camping ground are combined. A random dump truck completes the look. 

Following the beautiful valley of the Rio Maniguales to Coyhaique. 

Making progress.

My route so far. It's the black line from Villarica to Coyhaique. 

 

On the Carretera Austral

I'm now riding the Carretera Austral, a 1240 km road through Patagonia linking Puerto Montt in the north with Villa O'Higgins in the south. It was started in the 70's under Pinochet and finally completed in the year 2000. It's mostly unsealed but that is slowly changing. I have often encountered roadworks and unexpected sealed sections as I've made my way south. Most sections have been peaceful with only the occasional car or truck speeding past and leaving me behind in a cloud of dust. So far, the rough sections have not caused any problems for my trusty bicycle. The route is remote and beautiful with endless vistas of forests, rivers, lakes, fiords, isolated farms and snow-capped mountains.

It's a popular route with touring cyclists, both Chilean and from overseas. You tend to meet the same people at unexpected times along the way and there's always time to ride together for a while and have a chat. 

South of Cochamo. I'll spare you a joke  about the chicken and the road. 

Sheep on land...

...and water. 

Ferry crossing from Hornoprien to Leptepu. 

And from Pillan to Caleta Gonzalo. 

"Only God knows if I will return". A good motto for my trip?

The signs of the volcanic eruption near Chaiten in 2010 are still visible today. 

On the road to Chaiten. 

On the road to El Amarillo, "El centro del Mundo", according to a sign. 

Near Lago Yelcho. 

Approaching La Junta. 

The vital ingredients for Pisco Sour, enjoyed at the campsite in La Junta. 

The rustic little fishing village of Puyuhuapi was settled by German immigrants. Unfortunately, factory fishing boats decimated the fishing industry in the 80's and today, people work in the numerous salmon farms to be found along the coast. 

My chosen campsite in Puyuhaupi. I heard the siren's call...

Worth a stop: The magnificent Ventisquero Queulat is a reachable by a short hike from the main road south of Puyuhaupi. 

Approaching the top of the biggest climb on the Carratera, Cuesta Queulat.