Coyhaique - Half Way on the Carretera

I've now reached Coyhaique, which marks approximately half way on the Carretera Austral! It's my first day off after 12 consecutive days of cycling. There's beautiful sunny weather and free accommodation at a casa ciclista, where I can camp in the back yard of a fellow cyclist along with about 8 others. It's a relaxed atmosphere and a good chance to catch up on the washing, bike maintenance, shopping, blog, diary...

I've made some great friends and am looking forward to the next part of the journey, following the southern part of the Carretera Austral to Bernhard O'Higgens.  I've ridden about 1150 km and still have about 2000 km to Ushuaia. 

Near Villa Amengual on the way to Coyhaique. 

Free camping with cycling friends. 

Approaching Villa Manihuales. 

In Villa Manihuales, motel and camping ground are combined. A random dump truck completes the look. 

Following the beautiful valley of the Rio Maniguales to Coyhaique. 

Making progress.

My route so far. It's the black line from Villarica to Coyhaique. 

 

On the Carretera Austral

I'm now riding the Carretera Austral, a 1240 km road through Patagonia linking Puerto Montt in the north with Villa O'Higgins in the south. It was started in the 70's under Pinochet and finally completed in the year 2000. It's mostly unsealed but that is slowly changing. I have often encountered roadworks and unexpected sealed sections as I've made my way south. Most sections have been peaceful with only the occasional car or truck speeding past and leaving me behind in a cloud of dust. So far, the rough sections have not caused any problems for my trusty bicycle. The route is remote and beautiful with endless vistas of forests, rivers, lakes, fiords, isolated farms and snow-capped mountains.

It's a popular route with touring cyclists, both Chilean and from overseas. You tend to meet the same people at unexpected times along the way and there's always time to ride together for a while and have a chat. 

South of Cochamo. I'll spare you a joke  about the chicken and the road. 

Sheep on land...

...and water. 

Ferry crossing from Hornoprien to Leptepu. 

And from Pillan to Caleta Gonzalo. 

"Only God knows if I will return". A good motto for my trip?

The signs of the volcanic eruption near Chaiten in 2010 are still visible today. 

On the road to Chaiten. 

On the road to El Amarillo, "El centro del Mundo", according to a sign. 

Near Lago Yelcho. 

Approaching La Junta. 

The vital ingredients for Pisco Sour, enjoyed at the campsite in La Junta. 

The rustic little fishing village of Puyuhuapi was settled by German immigrants. Unfortunately, factory fishing boats decimated the fishing industry in the 80's and today, people work in the numerous salmon farms to be found along the coast. 

My chosen campsite in Puyuhaupi. I heard the siren's call...

Worth a stop: The magnificent Ventisquero Queulat is a reachable by a short hike from the main road south of Puyuhaupi. 

Approaching the top of the biggest climb on the Carratera, Cuesta Queulat.